Masada... Qumran... Bethlehem...

March 11, 2008 - 16:27: writing in Bethlehem

Two great stops earlier today... Masada and Qumran. Masada, as you will recall, is where zealots held off a Roman attack for an unbelievable amount of time; when it became plain that the Romans would breach the fortress the next day, they committed mass suicide rather than submit to slavery. Any further information you need I'm sure is readily available via Google. I was surprised not only at how remote it is, but how HUGE it is. It was quite a fortress, though I still don't quite get why they bothered to build it where they did in the first place. It seems almost a citadel in nowhere guarding nothing! Perhaps there is more to be seen in the larger regional context, but if you see the pictures, you'll see what I mean.

Qumran of course is the location of the Dead Sea Scrolls. It's funny, I didn't put together until just now that that's where we were... the Dead Sea where those scrolls were first written and found some 1900 years later. After writing a research paper on them and seeing all kinds of pictures, it was really something to stand on the cliff edge overlooking the cave where they were found.

We are definitely getting a closer look at the Israeli-Palestinian conflict now. We entered Palestinian territory since Bethlehem is now in their control, and they don't allow Israeli citizens to cross the boundary. In fact, there are signs that say so. A Palestinian guard with an AK-47 or similar weapon (no one I've asked got a close enough look to know for sure) slung over his shoulder boarded the bus, gave us a once-over, and left after insisting that we take no pictures of the checkpoint. I took that to be mean we must be more sneaky about taking pictures of the checkpoint.

There are pictures of Arafat everywhere. Apparently he is still quite the hero where we are right now. And it was not lost on me that a lot of the pro-Palestinian graffiti is written in English. Considering Arabic is the predominant language, the only reason for that that I can think of is to influence Western tourists who come into Bethlehem.

Our first stop at a shop is owned by a Palestinian Christian; while we were gathered around to meet him, he asked us a favor, and then had instructions for shopping. The favor was really something... he said that he realizes there will be no peace in this region until the Prince of Peace returns, but the U.S. and others were getting ready to try to hammer out a peace agreement between the Palestinians and Israel... and he asked us to pray that God would give wisdom to those involved in that process. Then he went on with a welcome to his store and give instructions for shopping. (Interesting side note... "shopping baskets" are quite literal here!)

We're coming up to the checkpoint to get back out of the Palestinian territory; I'll wrap this up for now, but I must say the barricade reminds me a lot of what the Berlin Wall must have been like.

Okay, we're through. That took forever. But after a friendly Israeli soldier (notable contrast to Palestinian soldier earlier!) went through the bus looking at our passports, we were on our way.

The other stop we made in Bethlehem was, of course, the Church of the Nativity. It is apparently the oldest Christian church in the world. Although it was fascinating, and the weight of history does indeed bear down on one in such a place, it was difficult (for me, anyway) to make more than an intellectual connection between the gaudy votives and commemorations, and the humble beginnings that Jesus actually had. I think I would have preferred the little cave as it was when Jesus was born--protected, yes, but still just plain. But I still wouldn't have missed it for the world. It's a beautiful church, amazingly old, and fascinating that such obscure beginnings from so long ago could be found.

Well, I've got 15 minutes before dinner, so I think I will close here and lie down for a little bit. It's been a long day and a lot of travel... but a blast!

Harking back to the three things I hoped to accomplish this trip, I don't know exactly where it falls but I am being reminded of one thing... that there are always–always–two sides to every story. I'm hoping to get a little more of that while I'm here.